TOPSIDE-DOWN

SURFING SABANG
Baler, Aurora Province
December 1, 2006

Clouds cloak the distant mountains as the storm gathers strength.

Grey skies and strong waves do not stop these two men from taking a dip.

It is 3 in the afternoon and The Wind is blowing so hard now, if you stare long enough into the horizon, you can actually see him, his mouth wide open, busting his gut, giving it his all. He’s blowing so fierce it drives the rain into my face like pin-pricks and I have to lean forward to keep from being carried away. The waves are crashing recklessly all over the place covering the brown sand in a foamy white. I’m standing on the beach with a thought in my head and I hear the Wind’s voice answer me, ‘Sorry buddy. Not today.’

I headed back to Bay’s Inn where I am shacked for the next few days. I read on the internet it is the most popular guesthouse but somehow, there are only a handful of visitors. “Could it be the weather?” I think to myself as I shake 5 liters of rainwater off my windbreaker. There are a few people hanging out unmindful of the 330kph howler. I nod to them and they invite me to sit so I squish over and we trade stories over a few bottles while waiting for typhoon Reming to pass.

A town where everyone seems to know everyone, Baler is in Aurora province and lies on the eastern side of Luzon. Facing the Pacific Ocean, it is one of the provinces notorious for being frequently hit by typhoons that build-up during the monsoon season. This geographic location also makes Baler famous for its waves that surfers search for. It is a long seven-hour bus ride from Manila through parts of the majestic Sierra Madres mountain range and rough gravel roads, but it’s worth it.

Of course the conversation revolves around surfing. Roy and Ogie have been riding waves for over ten years now. Natives to the province, they explain there are several surf sites in the area. Sabang beach, also known as Beach Break, has a sandy bottom and moderate surf that would be perfect for a novice like myself. A frenchman (i forget his nom) in the group couldn’t stop raving about Cemento Break. A professional surfer, his eyes light up as he talks about the thrill of Cemento's ‘cobra-like’ swells that have a tendency to suddenly rise and strike. Not to mention the danger of the coral bottom when you wipe-out.

Roy notes, however, that probably the most famous break is Charlie’s Point. This was where the beach scene in "Apocalypse Now" was shot wherein air support units napalm a Vietnamese coastal village. In the movie, the surfing-crazed Kilgore gives one soldier a clear choice: "You want to surf soldier? Cause you either surf or fight, is that clear?" Kilgore also goes on about the impressive 6-foot swells where “one guy can break right, one left simultaneous.” The conversation then steers to discussions of scenes in the classic movie.

Later in the evening, I walked across the street to Freddie’s bistro, a local hangout. The place is sort of a music-hall-slash-restaurant-slash-disco-slash-karaoke. There is a band playing an eclectic mix of pop music and there are people dancing in the center. Trying not to attract too much attention, I find a table towards the back. But nothing escapes the manager Aaron who sways over, all 5 feet 8 inches of frilly, flowery dress and 4-inch high-heels, to get my order at the same time ask if I want some female (or otherwise) company. I ask for a beer and politely decline the latter. He introduces me to Tok the waiter who, I’m surprised, joins me for a drink and starts preaching that “surfing isn’t just sport. More than that, it is a lifestyle.” After a few more gulps on his beer, he offers to give me free lessons. Now, whether in surfing or the lifestyle, I’m not too sure.

When not surfing, Naldo (on beatbox) and Roy (on guitar) jam it up at a local bar.

The typhoon went on for another day so I spent my time walking around the coast which was lined with quaint vacation resorts that were shuttered this being the off-season. By the afternoon, the winds somewhat eased and the rain had stopped. I spied Roy and Ogie looking out into the sea with anticipation. There were a few braver surfers out already taking on the stormy waves. While I was tempted to ‘hang-ten’ with them, I decided to ‘hang-by-the-bar,’ what with the waves still just a millimeter too high for me.

A surfer braves the still stormy swells.

Early the following morning, I woke to a knocking on my door. I met Naldo the night before. He plays the beat-box (kajon) for a local band called Peter North (I didn’t ask about the band name). He offered to lend me his board. Wiping the sleep off my eyes, I saw the sun was out and the skies were clear and the only evidence of the storm was the beach littered with driftwood. Already, there were a lot of surfers in the water. I had all the ingredients: blue skies, easy waves (according to the locals), and the determination to stand up on a board for more than 2 seconds. Now I’m a fairly athletic guy so it was with a bleep-load of arrogance that I put on my rash guard and paddled out into the ocean on Naldo’s short board.

Surfing lesson number 1: Short boards are harder to surf than long boards.

I paddled furiously. I waited for the right waves. I told myself, “I’ve seen this in the movies.” My first attempt was, to put it mildly, nothing short of embarrassing. I did not even last a second. I flipped. I fell. I feasted on sand. Not a few times. I gave a new meaning to surf and turf. Which brings us to…

Surfing lesson number 2: Remember surfing lesson number 1.

Later in the day, Roy showed up and lent me his long board. After more tumbles and whispering mild threats to the board to cooperate, I finally passed my 2-second requirement. It was an exhilarating test of balance, stamina and courage! For, um, 2 seconds, the ocean and I were one. The “surfer-dudes” were applauding and flashing me the “hang-loose” hand sign. The thrill is not unlike finishing a marathon or getting away from a traffic violation. They all require practice and a bleep-load of pig-headedness.

I went back to the resort for a cold one with a badge on my chest that looked more like a scrape from one of my wipe-outs. New rush, new friends, and new aches in 'muscles-I-did-not-know-existed' later, I was hooked. Yes, I will be back in Baler come February for the Aurora Cup, the annual international surfing competition held here. Well, not to join, but just to catch a few waves and hang-loose.