BOHOL
Panglao Island, Bohol
July, 2004

The wind is swift on my face I have to squint to prevent my eyes from drying up. The fast-craft I am on takes on the swells of the sea with ease lending a comfortable ride. With clear blue skies, it would be a sin to sit on the air-conditioned lower deck. Keeping me company on the top deck, a ‘barkada’ of young foreign tourists are seated on the railing at the far end clowning around taking turns at the camera. As I settled into a chair, I looked back to see Cebu fading into a dot in the horizon. So began an excellent trip to Bohol.

Alona beach is a stretch of powder-white sand. Without the large tourist crowds of more popular destinations, island life is slow and relaxed. After walking around we settled ourselves in a cafe facing the beach, ordered a round of cold beer and swapped lies while the afternoon faded into night. As our cares drifted away, our idleness was replaced with a grumbling in our stomachs. Our feast of sinugbang talakitok (grilled jacks), sinigang na hipon (a sour soup with shrimps) and grilled pork chops certainly hit the spot.

Panglao Island reminded me of Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi in Thailand. The place isn’t bombarded with blaring music and it doesn’t have that ‘GB3 party-place’ mood that Boracay nowadays resembles. And I don’t want to be in GB3. Instead, for entertainment, a couple of local men brought a guitar, settled in a corner and started playing standard sing-along songs (of the Bee Gees, Air Supply kind), some folk and country songs (of the John Denver, Dolly Parton kind), some ‘slow-rock’ songs (of the Poison, Nazareth kind – ouch!), and a sprinkling of The Beatles and Clapton for good measure. Somehow though, that fit in more with the scene than Techno music pounding in your ears. As our newfound Korean traveler friend Youna put it, ‘It’s got flavor.’ Coming from someone who studied music in Vienna and played flute for the Vienna Philharmonic, it was quite surprising to see her tapping her feet to the rhythm.

The following day was dive day and I was as excited as a shark in a feeding frenzy. I’ve heard so much about how Balicasag Island is a world-class dive spot. I was not disappointed. There are a lot of dive operators to choose from so I recommend you compare rates. As in most situations, you get what you pay for. We decided to go with Philippine Island Divers.

Diving Balicasag in one word - amazing. The visibility is so clear you can see over 20 feet. This place has been declared a sanctuary so the marine life is thriving. Lionfish and moray eels swim around the lush coral growth and the famous schooling Jacks were to the left, to the right, over and under us. I’m talking numbers in the hundreds, their silver scales glistening like mirror balls under the sea. From around a corner, a large sea turtle swam gracefully along the reef. As I swam with the creature, the sea wall slowly disappeared behind me leaving me alone with my new friend. I felt as if it was inviting, no, daring me to follow into the deep blue. Reluctantly, I turned back and with a wave of his big flipper-foot he swam into the depths.

For our second dive we explored the site called Black Forest. Here, a lot of macro fish can be found. With help from a magnifying glass our dive-master Michael handily brought with him, he pointed out miniature crabs that were hiding in the soft corals of the reef. We also saw a variety of bright colored nudibranchs. A spotted stingray showed itself briefly while a huge Batfish swam about. Damn, where’s that underwater cam that Santa promised me?

Bohol is not just about diving though. The province is full of history and natural wonders. Their main fiesta commemorates the ‘Sandugo’ or blood compact between Datu Sikatuna and Captain General Miguel Lopez de Leagspi back in 1565. There is a monument to this event overlooking the waters of Bohol.

The province is also home to what might be the world’s smallest primate, the Tarsier. They’re small enough to fit in the palm of your hand and their eyes are so huge they seem to be popping out of their tiny heads.

Of course a trip to Bohol is not complete without seeing the intriguing chocolate hills. It is said that this part of the province was completely submerged ages ago and when the earth shifted, these mounds rose from the water. Or something like that. The farmers have worked their plots around these hills making them centerpieces of their land.

The resort we stayed at, the Alona Kew Resort, is a charming place with a variety of rooms to meet different budgets. From air-conditioned beachfront suites to single rooms with fan for the basic traveler. The rooms are spacious and clean while the staff friendly and more than accommodating.


The Sandugo monument commemorating Philippine-Spanish friendship.


'Chocolate' hills dot the landscape like bublewrap.


The Spanish colonizers brought Catholicism to the natives as evidenced by old stone and coral churches.


Redgie takes in the brisk wind and the panorama above the fast craft from Cebu.




Locals skim the waves in Panglao island, Bohol.