TOPSIDE-DOWN

2007-04-14T15:46:00.000+08:00

METROACTIVE PARTY
Calatagan, Batangas
April 14, 2007

"In the summertime when the weather is hot
You can stretch right up and touch the sky...
...Have a drink, have a drive
Go out and see what you can find." - Mungo Jerry

As the heat escalates to pressure cooker levels, it was a welcome treat to have been invited to the Metroactive beach party in Calatagan, Batangas. About 3 hours away from Manila, Playa de Calatagan is a residential beach community being developed by Landco Properties that boasts of a looong stretch of white sand fronting cool waters. The beach has such a gradual slope, 50 meters from the shore, the water is still waist-deep.

True to the Metroactive lifestyle, there was kite-boarding, winch-boarding, jet-skiing, wall-climbing, ultimate frisbee-ing, sunbathing, and of course, beer drinking. It was a great way to spend a sizzling summer Saturday. Ray Dorset would have felt right at home.

* Ray Dorset = vocalist of Mungo Jerry, a 70's UK pop band. When "In the Summertime" was released, the record topped the UK Singles Chart for seven weeks, made number one in almost every other country around the world, and to date has sold around 23 million copies. - thank you, Wikipedia!

What goes up, must come down.

Kite boarding!

Staring at the sea, staring at the sand.

Water babies all.

Getting him started early on the Metroactive lifestyle, editor-in-chief Ernie Lopez spends quality beach time with his son.

Ultimate Frisbee

Top model Derek Ramsey shows off his moves as he dives to save a catch.

Activities went on till way past sunset.

No beach party is complete without those spinning fireballs.

2007-02-10T19:11:00.000+08:00

HOT AIR BALLOON FEST
Clark Airbase
Angeles, Pampangga
February 09, 2007

This wasn’t supposed to be a story about, um, l-o-v-e. Never mind that it was the weekend before Valentine's Day. Never mind that there was a big red heart filled with heated gas rising above the ground. Never mind that my first and only time to ride this thing happened a lifetime ago in Napa Valley and the only other couple in our basket, strangers to us and dressed in a tux and wedding gown, exchanged ‘I do’s’ in a ceremony officiated by our pilot hundreds of feet above lush vineyards glowing red and yellow from the rising sun.

Anyway, I just wanted to get out of town and eat the famous ‘sisig ni Aling Lucing’ by the ‘riles’ in Angeles and maybe pop in one or two bars that line Field’s Avenue and, since I was there already, take photos of the Hot Air Balloon Fest in Clark, the former American airbase.

I left Manila just before the crack of dawn and arrived at Clark at about 5:30 in the morning just in time to catch the multi-national participants setting up their balloons. The place was crawling with photographers from the media and from various camera clubs it was difficult to get a shot with just the balloon crew. I looked around and spotted a team at the far end of the field that had mostly escaped attention from the crowd. I decided to hang with that group. Chatting with the pilot, I found out she was the only female pilot in the race and that it was a race and that she was the three time defending champion and that she single-handedly stitched her balloon together. I thought that was my story. I was going to get into the technicalities of flying and racing this inflatable, flying contraption.

Then I get a tap on my shoulder from this girl whose face looks familiar but I just can’t place. Playing 20 questions – by the 3rd actually - we figured out that we had both gone to the state university and had common friends. It was at this point that my story took its romantic turn. As Myla explained, she and her husband were actually celebrating their wedding anniversary and she decided to surprise her hubby Mejul (which sounds too much like ‘mahal’ which translates to ‘love' which I know is a stretch) to a hot air balloon ride. He knew nothing of her preparations except that it was a surprise and they had to leave Manila at 4 in the morning. With the rising sun reflecting off their eyes, the sweet as sanzrival couple held hands and jumped aboard the basket and lifted off. At this point I will avoid cliché’s like the plague and just say when it comes to love, it’s up in the air.

As a mode of transport, it is probably the most impractical vehicle. Like love, it only goes up or down and mostly you can’t steer right or left and you are at the mercy of the winds. If you want to stay buoyant and keep from sinking, you have to keep the heat up. But it can be exhilarating and take you on the ride of your life. Much like how Myla and Mejul and the two couples in Napa must've felt.

The air show lasted four days, from Thursday till Sunday. There were a lot of foodstalls and a marching band kept the atmosphere festive as people brought their familiies and pets even.

Love or something like it seems to have infected some student pilots who gathered enough g-force (a.k.a. guapo-force) to introduce themselves to some of the pretty young things.

The festival featured other forms of flight as children flew kites and daredevils flew ultralights and paragliders.

2007-01-11T14:42:00.000+08:00

LIFE IN A COASTAL TOWN
Baler, Aurora Province
December 2006

Aurora Province lies on the eastern coast of Luzon. Facing the Pacific Ocean, it is bounded by Isabela and Quirino to the north, Nueva Ecija and Nueva Vizcaya to the West and Northwest, and Quezon and Bulacan Province to the West and Sourtwest.

Named after the wife of the former President Manuel Quezon, it is a young province declared only in the August of 1979 with Baler as its capital. Baler itself though, is as old as most towns in Luzon. Dating back to the Spanish Friars, Baler is rich in history. The Baler church in the poblacion was where Filipino insurgents besieged the last Spanish garrison of four officers and 50 men from June 27, 1898 to July 2, 1899. This was the last pocket of resistance of the Spanish Armed Forces before surrendering to American troops.

Mostly mountainous and boasting of 328kms of coastline, Aurora offers various activities for the adventurous traveler. There are trails to blaze, caves to explore, islands to hop, beaches to bask in, and of course, waves to surf.

Just 5 minutes from Baler town proper is Sabang beach, an enchanting paradise of natural beauty. There are several resorts that line this stretch of sand. Feeding out into the sea at the southern end is a river where fishermen moor their bancas (outriggers) for protection from the weather.

The seven-hour trip from Manila through the plains of Nueva Ecija and cutting through the winding and sometimes narrow roads of the majestic Sierra Madres mountains make for a challenging trip. Besides the foreign and local surfing and backpacking communities, Baler is not your usual tourist destination. This lends to an un-crowded beach and laid-back lifestyle. If you want to get away and get off the beaten track, pack your bags and head east.

One of the houses that line Sabang Beach.

Residents rely on bancas (outriggers) to ferry them across a river.

Fisherfolk lend a helping hand docking a banca in a riverbank for safety.

At the end of the day, a fisherman packs-up his net.

Wood from the mountains carried down by the river washes up on the shores of Sabang beach in the aftermath of Typhoon Reming.

Due to the high costs of kerosene, residents gather wood from the beach to be dried and used as charcoal for cooking.

Even huge trunks are not spared from the power of the monsoon.

A resident carries his pole on his shoulder. This log is good for a week's cooking.

To save on cooking fuel costs, a man weilds a machete to chop a whole log before carrying it off to be dried.

Driftwood and debris line Sabang beach in the aftermath of a storm as a woman looks back at her house.

Without a care in the world, mga Batang Baler (children of Baler) play in the sea and sand.

After her husband's day out in the sea, a woman sells the catch of the day.

As in all coastal towns, residents depend on fishing for their livelihood.

A woman and her dog take time out as the last gusts of typhoon Reming blow past Baler.

To-bats, assistant boatman.

Lito, the boatman.

Mga Batang Baler

The child is just beginning his walk, while grandma is on her way home.

Grandma and grandchild take a stroll along the beach looking out for driftwood that they can decorate and use as a christmas tree.

Lola

Local surfers bravely head to the sea unmindful of the debris in the beach.

Roy takes a break from the waves.

2007-01-08T02:25:00.000+08:00

SURFING SABANG
Baler, Aurora Province
December 1, 2006

Clouds cloak the distant mountains as the storm gathers strength.

Grey skies and strong waves do not stop these two men from taking a dip.

It is 3 in the afternoon and The Wind is blowing so hard now, if you stare long enough into the horizon, you can actually see him, his mouth wide open, busting his gut, giving it his all. He’s blowing so fierce it drives the rain into my face like pin-pricks and I have to lean forward to keep from being carried away. The waves are crashing recklessly all over the place covering the brown sand in a foamy white. I’m standing on the beach with a thought in my head and I hear the Wind’s voice answer me, ‘Sorry buddy. Not today.’

I headed back to Bay’s Inn where I am shacked for the next few days. I read on the internet it is the most popular guesthouse but somehow, there are only a handful of visitors. “Could it be the weather?” I think to myself as I shake 5 liters of rainwater off my windbreaker. There are a few people hanging out unmindful of the 330kph howler. I nod to them and they invite me to sit so I squish over and we trade stories over a few bottles while waiting for typhoon Reming to pass.

A town where everyone seems to know everyone, Baler is in Aurora province and lies on the eastern side of Luzon. Facing the Pacific Ocean, it is one of the provinces notorious for being frequently hit by typhoons that build-up during the monsoon season. This geographic location also makes Baler famous for its waves that surfers search for. It is a long seven-hour bus ride from Manila through parts of the majestic Sierra Madres mountain range and rough gravel roads, but it’s worth it.

Of course the conversation revolves around surfing. Roy and Ogie have been riding waves for over ten years now. Natives to the province, they explain there are several surf sites in the area. Sabang beach, also known as Beach Break, has a sandy bottom and moderate surf that would be perfect for a novice like myself. A frenchman (i forget his nom) in the group couldn’t stop raving about Cemento Break. A professional surfer, his eyes light up as he talks about the thrill of Cemento's ‘cobra-like’ swells that have a tendency to suddenly rise and strike. Not to mention the danger of the coral bottom when you wipe-out.

Roy notes, however, that probably the most famous break is Charlie’s Point. This was where the beach scene in "Apocalypse Now" was shot wherein air support units napalm a Vietnamese coastal village. In the movie, the surfing-crazed Kilgore gives one soldier a clear choice: "You want to surf soldier? Cause you either surf or fight, is that clear?" Kilgore also goes on about the impressive 6-foot swells where “one guy can break right, one left simultaneous.” The conversation then steers to discussions of scenes in the classic movie.

Later in the evening, I walked across the street to Freddie’s bistro, a local hangout. The place is sort of a music-hall-slash-restaurant-slash-disco-slash-karaoke. There is a band playing an eclectic mix of pop music and there are people dancing in the center. Trying not to attract too much attention, I find a table towards the back. But nothing escapes the manager Aaron who sways over, all 5 feet 8 inches of frilly, flowery dress and 4-inch high-heels, to get my order at the same time ask if I want some female (or otherwise) company. I ask for a beer and politely decline the latter. He introduces me to Tok the waiter who, I’m surprised, joins me for a drink and starts preaching that “surfing isn’t just sport. More than that, it is a lifestyle.” After a few more gulps on his beer, he offers to give me free lessons. Now, whether in surfing or the lifestyle, I’m not too sure.

When not surfing, Naldo (on beatbox) and Roy (on guitar) jam it up at a local bar.

The typhoon went on for another day so I spent my time walking around the coast which was lined with quaint vacation resorts that were shuttered this being the off-season. By the afternoon, the winds somewhat eased and the rain had stopped. I spied Roy and Ogie looking out into the sea with anticipation. There were a few braver surfers out already taking on the stormy waves. While I was tempted to ‘hang-ten’ with them, I decided to ‘hang-by-the-bar,’ what with the waves still just a millimeter too high for me.

A surfer braves the still stormy swells.

Early the following morning, I woke to a knocking on my door. I met Naldo the night before. He plays the beat-box (kajon) for a local band called Peter North (I didn’t ask about the band name). He offered to lend me his board. Wiping the sleep off my eyes, I saw the sun was out and the skies were clear and the only evidence of the storm was the beach littered with driftwood. Already, there were a lot of surfers in the water. I had all the ingredients: blue skies, easy waves (according to the locals), and the determination to stand up on a board for more than 2 seconds. Now I’m a fairly athletic guy so it was with a bleep-load of arrogance that I put on my rash guard and paddled out into the ocean on Naldo’s short board.

Surfing lesson number 1: Short boards are harder to surf than long boards.

I paddled furiously. I waited for the right waves. I told myself, “I’ve seen this in the movies.” My first attempt was, to put it mildly, nothing short of embarrassing. I did not even last a second. I flipped. I fell. I feasted on sand. Not a few times. I gave a new meaning to surf and turf. Which brings us to…

Surfing lesson number 2: Remember surfing lesson number 1.

Later in the day, Roy showed up and lent me his long board. After more tumbles and whispering mild threats to the board to cooperate, I finally passed my 2-second requirement. It was an exhilarating test of balance, stamina and courage! For, um, 2 seconds, the ocean and I were one. The “surfer-dudes” were applauding and flashing me the “hang-loose” hand sign. The thrill is not unlike finishing a marathon or getting away from a traffic violation. They all require practice and a bleep-load of pig-headedness.

I went back to the resort for a cold one with a badge on my chest that looked more like a scrape from one of my wipe-outs. New rush, new friends, and new aches in 'muscles-I-did-not-know-existed' later, I was hooked. Yes, I will be back in Baler come February for the Aurora Cup, the annual international surfing competition held here. Well, not to join, but just to catch a few waves and hang-loose.

Going back for more!

One of the pioneers of surfing in Baler.

Roy walks back to the resort after having his way with the waves.

Surf's up!

The beach front of Bay's Inn Resort

Moon over Baler.

2006-07-29T14:25:00.000+08:00

PANSUKIAN RESORT
Siargao Island, Surigao
June, 2006

Gentle waves softly lap at the shoreline as your feet slowly sink into the powder white sand. The sky is a sea of turquoise stretching into the horizon. A light breeze tingles your skin as you gaze into the distance where, crossing the distant sandbar, a lone outrigger chugs steadily. You wiggle your toes feeling the fine sand get between them like a natural exfoliant.

Marivic, the friendly waitress, brings you a cool glass of freshly squeezed mango juice as you recline into one of several daybeds spaced throughout the beach. Taking a sip, you sense a presence near you. It is Napo, the resident Great Dane, who sits and keeps you company.

There is a hint of a wag in his tail as he eyes you eyeing him. Your thoughts wander to those wonder years of 12 or 13 when your best friend was Sheba, a German Shepherd with a hilarious habit of dunking his head in his water-bowl. Those were good days.

The massage you had earlier in the lanai of your cottage has done wonders in de-stressing you. The knots are gone. You feel alive. Another sip of that refreshing drink and you resume reading the book you never seemed to have time to read. Far from the office, the traffic snarls, and cable television, you take a moment to enjoy the quiet. This is a good day too. My momma told me there’d be days like this.

The Quest

The year 1989 found a 27 years young Nicolas Rambeau, a lawyer with a flourishing practice in Paris, traveling across continents into Asia searching for his place in the sun. The stressful lifestyle associated with cosmopolitan cities can get to be too much. He needed change. Asked why he chose the Philippines, ‘to get as far away from France,’ is the quick reply. Knowing nothing about the country, he found it the perfect place to start the quest for his paradise. Hopping from one province to another, through Cebu and into Palawan, it was in Siargao Island that he found what he sought.

Siargao is an island off Surigao in the eastern coast of the Philippines. Facing the Pacific Ocean, the island is home to the best of what nature has to offer– white sand beaches, amazing coral reefs, emerald lagoons, lush mangroves, towering cliffs and subterranean caves.

Nicolas immediately fell in love with the island. He was captivated by the friendly people, the hospitality, ‘and everyone is always smiling,’ he grins. After some inquiries with the locals, he found a coconut plantation in barangay Gen. Luna that was for sale. In 1994, he entrusted the thriving law practice to his associate, packed his bags, made his home in Siargao and the rest is, well, now the haven that is Pansukian Resort.

A hop, skip and a jump

Getting to Pansukian is easy. Just hop on a flight to Surigao, skip to the pier and jump into a fastcraft that will take you to Siargao Island. Prior arrangements can be made with the Pansukian staff or Nicolas himself. Visit their website at www.pansukian.com .

* watch out for the feature on Pansukian Resort and Siargao Island in the inflight magazine of Asian Spirit and Lifestyle Asia.
* photo above shows Nicolas with his Great Dane, Napo in front of the main house.

The Balinese and Thai inspired motif blends in harmony with nature.

Napo, the resident Great Dane, enjoys a speedboat ride around Siargao.

The generous use of space and tasteful luxury ensures a relaxing and romantic vacation at Pansukian Resort.

Siargao, famous worldwide for its surfing, is also home to coves, cliffs and kayaking.

2006-07-21T18:59:00.000+08:00

ECORESCUE
APO REEF, Mindoro
December, 2005

ECORESCUE (ER) is a Philippine-based non-profit, non-governmental, volunteer organization composed of groups of environmentalists borne out of several years of implementing progressive conservation and environmental programs.

The VISION of ER is a self-managed and sustainable environmental society that becomes a significant contributor to the overall planetary balance.

The MISSION of ER is to revolutionize and synergize frontline marine environmental and conservation programs to become a dynamic, popular, and applied lifestyle for generations to come.

When I got the call from ER co-founder Boy Siojo asking if I was interested in volunteering for the first of a series of live-aboards that they were organizing, i did not hesitate. The event would take us diving at Apo Reef and Puerto Galera in Mindoro on board the M/Y Tristar.

The aim of the live-aboard series was to convert recreational divers into environmental divers. Marine biologists from ReefCheck Philippines were onboard to give lectures on how to conduct a reef check and the data collected would make up the report that would be forwarded to ReefCheck International.

We were happy to find that the marine life in Apo Reef is excellent. Although evidence of previous dynamite fishing is apparent, the reef is teeming with diverse species of aquatic life and corals are flourishing. Declared a sanctuary in 1996, the reef is frequently visited by sharks, turtles and mantas. Diving the walls of the atoll, one looks out into the deep blue in hopes of catching sight of pelagics. Not to be discounted, the residents on the wall itself are a wonder. Various corals and reef fish such as anemone fish, puffer fish and fusillers reside within the nooks and crannys.

With the newfound knowledge we gained from the lectures, we came ashore with a new sense of purpose. If we are to continue enjoying the beauty of our reefs, we must have a sense of collective ownership and ensure that these ecosystems survive for future generations.

To volunteer, log on to: www.ecorescue.org

ECORESCUE founder Boy Siojo and his co-founders on deck. The M/Y Tristar volunteered its services to the endeavor.

View of the MY/Tristar from the top of the lighthouse on Ranger Island.

Lesley Aquino of EcoRescue monitors marine life in Apo Reef.

Using transect lines, fish identification slates, and an indicator checklist, divers conduct a reef check off Apo Reef.

Residents of Apo Reef.

2006-06-13T01:44:00.000+08:00

TUBATTAHA REEF
November 2005

Diving off the Greenpeace flagship Rainbow Warrior as part of the Asia Energy Revolution tour, we bore witness to what we stand to lose if climate change is not addressed. Reefs are endangered because of the rising of ocean temperatures that may lead to coral bleaching.

For more information, log on to:
http://www.greenpeace.org/seasia/en

The remains of the Malayan wreck lies about 90ft below the surface in North Atoll, Tubattaha.

Butterflyfish pair off with their partners.

A diver fins head-on with schooling fusiliers.

A goldbelly damsel, Pomacentrus auriventris.

2006-06-12T00:28:00.000+08:00

RAINBOW WARRIOR
Greenpeace flagship
Asian Energy Tour 2005

The Rainbow Warrior is perhaps the most famous Greenpeace ship. The original vessel was sunk in 1985 by agents of the French government in an attempt to foil protests of their nuclear weapons testing in the Pacific. The current Rainbow Warrior was launched on 10 July 1989.

The ship's name was inspired by a North American Indian prophecy which foretells a time when human greed will make the Earth sick, and a mythical band of warriors will descend from a rainbow to save it.

I was on board the Rainbow Warrior during the Asia Energy Tour where we documented Tubattaha reef and the effects of global warming such as coral bleaching due to rising ocean temperatures.

For more information on Greenpeace, log on to:
http://www.greenpeace.org/seasia/en/about

Photographer Derek Soriano on deck in Tubattaha reef.

Rainbow Warrior sails into Puerto Princesa kicking-off the Philippine leg of the Greenpeace Asia Energy Tour 2005.

A fisherman paddles his banca close to the Rainbow Warrior out of curiosity.

2006-06-08T23:14:00.000+08:00

PULUPANDAN, Negros, Philippines
November, 2005

There was a proposed construction of a coal power plant. There was a group of courageous women from various sectors of society leading and educating their fellow Negrenses. Among them a principal, a farmer, a fisherwoman, and a school teacher.

They opposed relentlessly the irresponsible proponents of dirty energy, both private and government, and demanded cleaner alternatives to energy sourced from solar, wind and biomass. They did their research. They went to the streets. They withstood threats of violence even.

They won.

In 2002, the community claimed victory in their fight when the local government announced the cancellation of the planned coal power plant. The gasses and pollutants emitted by coal plants bring destruction to the seas and the land, compromising eco-systems, health and livelihood.

I was able to get to know them last year while documenting the 'Asia Energy Revolution Tour' held by Greenpeace when the flagship 'Rainbow Warrior' visited Philippine shores. These women are simply remarkable. And I'm not saying that just because I came home with a bottle of home-made 'sinamak' vinegar that one of the ladies generously gave me.

These are some of the portraits of these inspiring women. Check out the grrl power article written by Anne Marie Evans in the March 2006 issue of Marie Claire magazine.

For more information visit: http://www.greenpeace.org/seasia/en/press/releases/tribute-pulupandan-revolutionaries

2006-06-03T18:31:00.000+08:00

PARAW RACE
Bacolod, Philippines
November 2005

As part of its Asian clean energy campaign, the Greenpeace flagship boat 'Rainbow Warrior' visited Philippine shores in 2005 to pitch for clean energy solutions such as wind, solar and biomass energy sources. It was a fantastic campaign and I was lucky to have been invited to document the groups activities.

One of the events was a paraw race held in Bacolod to get the communities involved in keeping the environment clean. The participants from the different baranggays were very enthusiastic. With "clean energy" as the theme, they painted the sails of their respective paraws creatively. As soon as all the paraws were at the starting line, everyone waited in anticipation for the gunstart.

Then a funny thing happened. No one could find the police officer who was invited to fire the starting gun. After frantic searching, we found out the man got impatient, ate some chicken noodles and left. It's a good thing some people were playing with an improvised hand cannon. Borrowing the device, the race soon got on its way.

For more information on Greenpeace, visit their site at http://www.greenpeace.org/seasia/en/

2006-05-31T14:44:00.000+08:00

FEAST OF THE BLACK NAZARENE
Quiapo church, Manila
January, 2006

Quiapo is home to a fascinating set of people. Need your fortune told? Come to Quiapo. Need an amulet to ward off your ex-psycho-significant-other? Come to Quiapo. Need that miracle tonic that will restore your hair to rival Don King's? You'll find it in Quiapo.

All these vendors of myth and potions sell their wares right outside Quiapo Church. In a country rich with folklore yet devoutly Catholic, it is not so strange that these two cultural influences have fused together.

In what may just be the biggest Catholic feast celebrated in the Philippines outside of Lent and Christmas, the Feast of the Black Nazarene is a spectacle unto itself. The Black Nazarene is a life-sized statue of Christ carved by an Aztec carpenter that a priest bought in Mexico and brought to Manila in 1606.

Annually, every 9th of January, thousands of devotees will wait hours barefoot at the plaza outside the church. Most everyone is dressed in some shade of maroon milling about buying food, candles, and hopefully, even a miracle. The plaza fills up quickly until everyone is pressed unto each other. Then, with the lighting of fireworks and thunderous applause, the church gates open and the statue emerges on a gilded carriage to start its procession down the streets of Quiapo.

It is said that the statue is responsible for giving miracles to people who are able to touch it. Even non-believers will watch with awe at the passion of these people who will risk life and limb, pushing and shoving and throwing themselves unto the carriage in hopes of answered prayers for whatever it is they need.

Hankies, towels and shirts are thrown to the men on the carriage so they can wipe the statue thereby receiving God's blessings. Surprisingly, with the multitude of people throwing all these linen, the men on board remember who to return them back to. That, in itself, is a miracle. The zealous way these people hold their beliefs is really inspiring. Want to see what faith is really all about? Come to Quiapo.

2006-05-28T16:34:00.000+08:00

SUMILON ISLAND
Cebu, Philippines
Feb, 2006

It was a stormy weekend. The waves were too high no boat would ferry us over from Dumaguete to Sumilon island. We had to stay the night and hope the weather cleared in the morning. The rain and waves eased somewhat the following day but the skies were still grey. Not the best light for topside or underwater photos. But perfect for a couple (ok, more than a couple) of beers.

The island resort is beautiful. Well appointed bungalows facing the sea, an eternity swimming pool with a jacuzzi right next to it, food deliciously prepared by the chef of Lolo Dad's plus excellent service make for a great weekend getaway. We had the place to ourselves so it was like having our own private island. Nice.

The shoot went well enough. The model was such a trooper, despite the rain and cool wind, she bravely posed in various swimsuits. The dives were so-so. The divemaster was not too keen in taking us around different sites. Seems like the weather rained on his enthusiasm. Oh well, at least we spotted a turtle. Check out Girlfriend magazine's May issue for the fashion spread taken by photographer Jose Enrique Soriano.

2006-05-26T13:35:00.000+08:00

BOHOL
Panglao Island, Bohol
July, 2004

The wind is swift on my face I have to squint to prevent my eyes from drying up. The fast-craft I am on takes on the swells of the sea with ease lending a comfortable ride. With clear blue skies, it would be a sin to sit on the air-conditioned lower deck. Keeping me company on the top deck, a ‘barkada’ of young foreign tourists are seated on the railing at the far end clowning around taking turns at the camera. As I settled into a chair, I looked back to see Cebu fading into a dot in the horizon. So began an excellent trip to Bohol.

Alona beach is a stretch of powder-white sand. Without the large tourist crowds of more popular destinations, island life is slow and relaxed. After walking around we settled ourselves in a cafe facing the beach, ordered a round of cold beer and swapped lies while the afternoon faded into night. As our cares drifted away, our idleness was replaced with a grumbling in our stomachs. Our feast of sinugbang talakitok (grilled jacks), sinigang na hipon (a sour soup with shrimps) and grilled pork chops certainly hit the spot.

Panglao Island reminded me of Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi in Thailand. The place isn’t bombarded with blaring music and it doesn’t have that ‘GB3 party-place’ mood that Boracay nowadays resembles. And I don’t want to be in GB3. Instead, for entertainment, a couple of local men brought a guitar, settled in a corner and started playing standard sing-along songs (of the Bee Gees, Air Supply kind), some folk and country songs (of the John Denver, Dolly Parton kind), some ‘slow-rock’ songs (of the Poison, Nazareth kind – ouch!), and a sprinkling of The Beatles and Clapton for good measure. Somehow though, that fit in more with the scene than Techno music pounding in your ears. As our newfound Korean traveler friend Youna put it, ‘It’s got flavor.’ Coming from someone who studied music in Vienna and played flute for the Vienna Philharmonic, it was quite surprising to see her tapping her feet to the rhythm.

The following day was dive day and I was as excited as a shark in a feeding frenzy. I’ve heard so much about how Balicasag Island is a world-class dive spot. I was not disappointed. There are a lot of dive operators to choose from so I recommend you compare rates. As in most situations, you get what you pay for. We decided to go with Philippine Island Divers.

Diving Balicasag in one word - amazing. The visibility is so clear you can see over 20 feet. This place has been declared a sanctuary so the marine life is thriving. Lionfish and moray eels swim around the lush coral growth and the famous schooling Jacks were to the left, to the right, over and under us. I’m talking numbers in the hundreds, their silver scales glistening like mirror balls under the sea. From around a corner, a large sea turtle swam gracefully along the reef. As I swam with the creature, the sea wall slowly disappeared behind me leaving me alone with my new friend. I felt as if it was inviting, no, daring me to follow into the deep blue. Reluctantly, I turned back and with a wave of his big flipper-foot he swam into the depths.

For our second dive we explored the site called Black Forest. Here, a lot of macro fish can be found. With help from a magnifying glass our dive-master Michael handily brought with him, he pointed out miniature crabs that were hiding in the soft corals of the reef. We also saw a variety of bright colored nudibranchs. A spotted stingray showed itself briefly while a huge Batfish swam about. Damn, where’s that underwater cam that Santa promised me?

Bohol is not just about diving though. The province is full of history and natural wonders. Their main fiesta commemorates the ‘Sandugo’ or blood compact between Datu Sikatuna and Captain General Miguel Lopez de Leagspi back in 1565. There is a monument to this event overlooking the waters of Bohol.

The province is also home to what might be the world’s smallest primate, the Tarsier. They’re small enough to fit in the palm of your hand and their eyes are so huge they seem to be popping out of their tiny heads.

Of course a trip to Bohol is not complete without seeing the intriguing chocolate hills. It is said that this part of the province was completely submerged ages ago and when the earth shifted, these mounds rose from the water. Or something like that. The farmers have worked their plots around these hills making them centerpieces of their land.

The resort we stayed at, the Alona Kew Resort, is a charming place with a variety of rooms to meet different budgets. From air-conditioned beachfront suites to single rooms with fan for the basic traveler. The rooms are spacious and clean while the staff friendly and more than accommodating.

The Sandugo monument commemorating Philippine-Spanish friendship.

'Chocolate' hills dot the landscape like bublewrap.

The Spanish colonizers brought Catholicism to the natives as evidenced by old stone and coral churches.

Redgie takes in the brisk wind and the panorama above the fast craft from Cebu.

Locals skim the waves in Panglao island, Bohol.

2006-05-25T17:26:00.000+08:00

PISALAYAN Island, Bolinao, Pangasinan
March-April, 2006

We met Paul the Belgian at the Oarhouse, a little hole-in-the-wall in Malate. After a few rounds of isa pang one more ice-cold 'miglight, he graciously invited us to his hideaway in Pisalayan island off Bolinao, Pangasinan. He's been living there for several years now with his spirited wife Kelly along with their three dogs Ranger, Barangan, and Bunsoy.

What keeps Paul busy in his little pocket of paradise is the giant clam sanctuary he started some 10 years ago. About 25 metres from his beachfront and beneath 10 to 15 feet of sea live, at last count, over 2000 giant clams. Amidst a lush sea-grass garden, these clams serve as a reef for diverse fish to thrive. Schools of jack, anemone fish (more popularly called Nemo), angelfish, carp, butterfly fish, the elegant batfish, and many more have taken up residence in the ecosystem.

One man, ten years, 2000 clams, sustainable marine sanctuary. Imagine if another 10 people started doing the same thing in the area. NO DYNAMITE. NO CYANIDE. Sustainable fishing is possible.

We've been to his island twice now and had a great time snorkeling and freediving and laughing and bodypainting and eating and drinking and banging on bongoes like a chimpanzee. Thanks again to Paul and Kelly. See you guys soon for more Halo-Halo.

(How to make Halo-Halo (Paul's version): 3 parts Tanduay, 2 parts Tanduay, and 1 part Tanduay. Pour into tall Halo-Halo glass. Serve. Water on the side, optional

Ranger and Barangan chase off anyone that comes near the sanctuary.

Nicsaw, boatman, fisherman, Waray warrior from Samar, and friend.

A fisherman sells us his catch which included an octopus that Mehdi cooked to perfection.

Mehdi, Paul, Kelly, Derek and Gina strike a pose in front of the mangrove Paul started.

Portrait of puffer fish.

Snappers roam freely within the sanctuary.

These giant clams lie in a lush garden of sea grass.

A juvenile harlequin sweetlips takes shelter among the giant clams.